Metal Roofing in Paterson, NJ

Name: Paterson Roofing Pros
Telephone: 9737869795
Price range: $$

Paterson Roofing Pros installs metal roofing that ends the cycle of patching a roof every time a nor'easter rolls through. A standing-seam panel sheds rain and snow instead of holding it against the deck, and that matters when freeze-thaw cycles work on an old rowhome roof all winter. Call 9737869795 and we will walk your roofline with you before you spend a dollar.

Call 9737869795

Standing-seam metal panel being fastened over new synthetic underlayment on a Paterson rowhome roof.

Metal roofing covers a home with interlocking steel instead of shingles, and the difference shows up fast on a brick rowhome with a shallow pitch. We install standing-seam steel panels, corrugated panel profiles, and stone-coated steel stamped to look like clay tile, concrete tile, slate, or wood shake. A standing-seam panel runs the full slope with concealed fasteners, so a metal panel roof has far fewer spots where water can wick in around a screw.

Low-slope sections get a different system. Rear additions, porch roofs, and dormers that sit under a 3-in-12 pitch usually take a membrane such as TPO, EPDM, or a PVC membrane, or a modified bitumen and built-up roof layered over the decking. Ponding water and ice dam backup start in those spots, so we detail them apart from the panels above, set with a torch or a cold-applied adhesive where the detail calls for it.

Every job starts with a roof inspection of the decking, sheathing, the rafters, trusses, and ridge beam underneath. We check the roof pitch, replace rotted plywood or OSB, and set a self-adhered ice-and-water shield along the eave and valley before any panel goes down. Cost comes down to panel gauge, finish coating, and roof shape. Steel with a PVDF coating costs more up front than architectural shingles, though a 40-to-50 year service life changes the math. Aluminum makes sense where weight matters. Panel profiles from makers like McElroy Metal, ATAS, and Decra are the ones we quote most.

What's Included

We inspect the roof deck, rafters, and sheathing for rot before we quote, because hidden decay moves the final price more than the panel choice does.

We tear off the old asphalt shingles and roofing felt, plus the tar paper underneath, down to the substrate instead of covering a failing roof with new panels.

We lay a synthetic underlayment across the field and a self-adhered ice-and-water shield at the eaves, valleys, and around the chimney.

We fit step flashing, counter-flashing, apron flashing, boot flashing, and pipe flashing so water is turned by metal rather than smeared over with sealant.

We install the ridge cap, ridge vent, soffit vent, and snow guards, which close the roofline and stop snow from sliding onto the walk.

We set a vent boot at every pipe and re-flash the chimney, skylight, and dormer, the three places most likely to leak.

We finish the drip edge, fascia, gutter, and downspout so the eave drains away from the siding instead of soaking the soffit.

We work around roof shapes that cause trouble, including a mansard or gambrel slope, a canopy or awning over a side door, and the overhang above the front porch.

We haul debris out in a dumpster and hand you a written roof estimate with materials and labor broken out line by line.

Our Metal Roofing Process

How We Install a Metal Roof, Step by Step

We inspect from the ground, the attic, and on the rooftop, checking decking, purlins, rafters, and attic ventilation before we quote.
We hand you a written roof estimate with a line-item break for panels, underlayment, flashing, trim, and labor.
We stage ladders and scaffold, set fall protection, and have every crew member clipped into a safety harness before the first panel moves.
We tear off the old shingles and tar paper with a roofing shovel and pry bar, loading the dumpster as we go.
We replace rotted plywood or OSB, re-nail loose sheathing with ring-shank nails, and set a vapor barrier before the underlayment goes down.
We snap chalk lines, fasten battens or counterbattens where the system calls for them, and run each course square to the rake and verge.
We anchor each panel to the substrate per local building code, running a nail gun off an air compressor and checking courses with a roofing square.
We detail the hip, gable, valley, and ridge with ridge cap, then set a vent boot at every pipe, walk the roof with you, and clear the gutters.

Free Inspection

We assess your roof with a thorough inspection and provide a detailed photo report — no cost, no obligation.

Clear Estimate

You get an itemized scope with materials, labor, and timeline. No hidden fees. We discuss insurance and financing options.

Expert Work

Licensed crews arrive on schedule, protect your property, complete the work, and clean up thoroughly.

Final Walkthrough

You inspect with us. We document everything with before/after photos. Warranty registered and paperwork delivered.

Signs You Need Metal Roofing

Signs Your Roof Needs a Metal Roofing Contractor's Eye

Rust streaks run down from the fasteners on an older exposed-fastener panel, which means the washers have failed and water is getting past the screw.
Panels have lifted or opened at the seams after a nor'easter, letting wind-driven rain push sideways under the laps.
Ice builds along the eave and meltwater seeps backward under the panels during a freeze-thaw cycle.
Granule loss on the old asphalt shingles below tells you the roof is at end-of-life wear and patching will not hold much longer.
Dark staining or mold shows on the ceiling under a valley or chimney, which usually points to failed flashing rather than the panels.
The roof sags or settles along a rafter line, a sign that the decking or a joist underneath has taken on water and started to decay.
Snow slides off in one sheet and lands on the steps because there are no snow guards above the doorway.
Caulk, mastic, and roof cement have been smeared along a seam, which is a temporary patch rather than real waterproofing or weatherproofing.
The attic runs hot all summer because the ridge vent and soffit vent are blocked and an attic fan is pushing air with nowhere to go.

Metal Roofing — Frequently Asked Questions

How much does metal roofing cost compared to asphalt shingles?

Metal roofing costs more up front than three-tab or architectural shingle systems, and the spread depends on panel gauge, finish coating, and roof shape. Standing-seam steel and stone-coated steel sit at the top of the range, while corrugated panel systems cost less. We put every line in a written estimate so you can compare fairly.

How long does metal roofing take to install?

Metal roofing usually takes two to four days on a typical cape cod or ranch, and longer on a Victorian with dormers, hips, and a steep gable. Tear-off and deck repair set the schedule more than the panel work does. We give you the expected window before we start.

Can metal roofing go over existing shingles?

Metal roofing can sometimes be installed over one existing layer, but we only recommend that when the decking and underlayment below are sound. If there are active leaks, soft spots, or a cedar shake layer underneath, we tear off first. An overlay saves money now and traps problems later.

Does metal roofing survive a Paterson winter?

Metal roofing handles freeze-thaw cycles well because the panels shed snow instead of holding it against the deck. A standing-seam panel with proper ice-and-water shield at the eave and snow guards above the walkway resists ice dam damage. Attic insulation and ventilation matter as much as the panels do.

Does insurance cover metal roofing after storm damage?

Metal roofing damage from hail or high wind is often covered under a homeowner's policy, and we photograph what we find and work with your adjuster on the scope. A roofer's measurements and a line-item estimate make that conversation easier. We handle the paperwork with you, not for you.

Do you work on flat sections and odd rooflines?

Metal roofing is not the right answer everywhere. Low-slope additions usually take a membrane or modified bitumen, and a flat section behind a parapet needs a scupper and coping that drain properly. We will say when panels are the wrong call instead of selling you one.

Don't just take our word for it — hear from our satisfied customers.

"We had ice dam water coming through the ceiling every February. The crew tore off the old shingles, replaced the decking, and set standing-seam panels with new ice-and-water shield at the eave. Two winters later, no drips." — Maria G., Hillcrest

"Our rowhome off Market Street had two layers of shingles and a sagging section over the back. They showed us what they found under the decking and gave us a line-item estimate before starting. The ridge vent and new fascia fixed the attic heat too." — Anthony R., Downtown Paterson

"We wanted the look of slate without the weight. They walked us through stone-coated steel and aluminum, then matched the trim to the brick. Clean yard, no nails left behind." — Denise P., Riverside